We have just reached the border with China at the Kunjerab pass (9th August), after spending the best part of a month in Pakistan. We arrived at the border crossing point of Wagah, near to Lahore and Amritsar. The differences between India and pakistan became apparant the very moment we walked across the border - suddenly everything seemed calm, well organised and ordered compared to the manic craziness of Indian beuarocracy at thier customs point. The people were polite and dignified, the motorways were in a condition better than many in the UK, and there was a noticable lack of litter and filth by the roadside.
It was still hot though, high thirties as we drove for three or four days straight past Lahore, Islamabad and on to Gilgit. From here we left the truck and took local transport away from the Karakoran Highway eastwards to Skardu (a starting point for many of the high peaks in the Karakoram and Concordia). On some information found on the internet, we continued for another 100km or so eastwards to Khaplu, where we expected to find some good climbing.
A huge 300m wall towered over the sleepy rural town of Kaplu which at first glace promised to provide plenty of entertainment for the next few days, but on closer inspection the granite was utterly rotten, and very loose. I climbed a couple of routes on that face, getting to the top once with Roscoe, but the climbing was so terrifying and dangerous (imo) I didn't get much else done. One other route to the top was completed by Roscoe (again) and Danny, following the line they had spotted on the internet. A few other attempts resulted in retreat, stuck ropes, one ground fall and lots of falling rock. For the record, the climbing in Khaplu is pretty crap and I wouldn't recommend it.
After too long there we got a ride back to Skardu and then up the KKH to Pasu, which although still generally full of loose rock, was a much more pleasant place to stay. We camped outside the Glacier Breeze restaurant, at the bottom of the Pasu Glacier. There were three sport routes established near the restaurant, but being 6a, 6a+ and 6b slab routes with very wide spaced bolts they didn't hold much appeal after being climbing once each. We started to bolt a couple of steep lines but our crap drill wasn't really up to the task, so we settled for top roping. Even so it was pretty good fun and kept us active and entertained for a couple of days.
Pakistan was a interesting country to travel though and I wouldn't otherwise have had the inclination to do so, but the climbing seems to be pretty limited as far as cragging is concerned. I'm sure with more time and planning, some bigger mountains would be a great adventure.
At the moment our plan is to drive up to kashgar, then spend a few days at Shiptons Arch (mmm conglomerate... loose again) then a gurt big drive across Tibet to Lhasa, hopefully taking in a trek around Mt Kailash, a visit to Everest Base Camp at Rhongpu, and a few days mooching around Lhasa. After that Hot Rock is going driving for two weeks with a week at Siguniang Shan, which might have some trad possibilities. As I've decided to fly home on 25th Sept, I'll try to fly Lhasa -> Guillin, for two week bolting clipping at YuangShuo before flying home from Hong Kong. I had been thinking of staying out till January, but the south east asia section of the trip will be easier, cheaper and probably more enjoyable to do by myself or with a smaller group of friends sometime in the future.
